Art Blooms in the California Desert
Stephanie Diani for The New York Times
"From the Point of View of the Little People," an
assemblage by Noah Purifoy, is at the Noah Purifoy Outdoor Desert Art
Museum in Joshua Tree, Calif.
By JULIA CHAPLIN
Published: April 21, 2006
A FEW squat concrete buildings and a whole lot of dust. That's
what you're likely to notice first while driving through Joshua Tree, at
the foothills of the Mojave Desert in Southern California. The scorched
land still feels like a rugged frontier with nonstop wind and king-cab
pickup trucks hauling rusted washing machines and groceries.
There's nothing remotely charming or quaint about it. But hidden
among the cactus, creosote and tract housing is a full-fledged art
scene, with striking works by contemporary artists like Andrea Zittel,
Jason Rhoades and Jack Pierson. (Mr. Pierson likes to put the old
roadside sign letters he collects for his artwork out in the soil behind
his house to get that vintage sun-baked, weathered look.)
Set roughly 125 miles east of
Los Angeles
and 35 northeast of Palm Springs, the high-desert towns off Route 62,
including Pioneertown, Twentynine Palms and Wonder Valley as well as
Joshua Tree, have long been a haven for rock climbers who pilgrimage for
the weirdly shaped boulders at Joshua Tree National Park. But over the
last few years established artists, architects and musicians in search
of lower mortgage payments and wide open space have been trickling out
and setting up studios in old ranch houses, shipping containers and
geodesic domes left over from the 1970's.
Now it has become a
weekend destination for cultural foragers, whose idea of a fun getaway
is exploring outdoor sculpture gardens, artists' studios and
experimental architecture — like an igloo made of sandbags.
"Joshua
Tree is like the art world's Palm Springs," said Lisa Overduin, the
director of Regen Projects, the Los Angeles gallery that represents Ms.
Zittel and Mr. Pierson. "It's funny to see collectors in spiked Manolo's
teetering around the desert looking for art."
Ms. Zittel's "High
Desert Test Sites," an annual art happening (this year on May 6 and 7),
is the best opportunity to experience Joshua Tree's contemporary-art
scene. Ms. Zittel, the conceptual artist who helped kick-start the
Joshua Tree migration when she expanded her studio here from Brooklyn
six years ago, invites artists to trek out to the desert and install
large-scale site-specific works among the boulders, caves and cactus.
(Some of this year's participants include Katie Grinnan, Amy Yao and
Ryan McGinley.) Onlookers and revelers are given booklets with maps so
they can track the whimsical creations in a sort of zany scavenger hunt
that includes extracurricular activities like stopping for hamburgers at
local cafes and dancing the electric slide at Pappy & Harriet's, a
local honky tonk.
The artist Ed Ruscha, the musicians Eric Burdon and Victoria Williams, the performance artist
Ann Magnuson
and a cross section of Los Angeles screenwriters and set designers have
all bought homes in Joshua Tree in recent years, perhaps drawn by its
openness — both in attitude and in space. With its sweeping plateaus,
car-chase roads and big wandering skies, it's sort of like that other
desert art outpost, Marfa, Tex., where the elemental landscape and
slow-motion pace are themselves like a surreal artwork.
"It's like
there aren't any rules here, just survival," said Thom Merrick, an
artist who moved from New York several years ago because he was feeling
"compressed" in the city. "I go hiking every day up on the hill," he
said. "And if I need to think I rake rocks."
The towns themselves
have an authentic, survivalist quality refreshingly devoid of slick,
trendy accouterment. Many of the artists furnish their homes from the
dusty thrift shops along the highway. (Oversize kitschy lamps and
coyote-howling-in-the-moon paintings are hot items.) In the evening,
artists gather at sleepy bars like the Palms, with it's scratched pool
tables and country-western jukebox. At the Beatnik Café, local youth
with piercings and black-dyed hair mingle under a sci-fi sculpture of an
H. R. Geiger-esque deer spirit with tree roots. Banks of computers
against the wall have intentionally snarled cords that add to the desert
"Blade Runner" effect.
LOCALS like to say that Joshua Tree has
always been a haven for "entrepreneurs." The area was originally a
stopover for gold prospectors in the 1870's who camped by the Oasis of
Mara in Twentynine Palms. In 1938 the government passed the so-called
Baby Homestead Act in an attempt to populate the barren federal lands,
offering a free five-acre parcel to anyone willing to slap up a small
structure. The homesteaders who showed up were a motley cross section of
desperadoes willing to start anew in the middle of nowhere, which over
the years included a good number of artists, outcasts and U.F.O.
enthusiasts.
Many of the original homestead cabins are still
standing. Some have been renovated by new owners, like Mr. Pierson and
Ms. Zittel, who painted hers a minimalist art-gallery white, furnished
it with foam rocks and brought in two shipping containers to create an
experimental live-work compound she calls A-Z West. To complete the
modern pioneer idea, Ms. Zittel built dozens of "Wagon Stations," small
steel capsules inspired by station wagons strewn about the rocky
hillside and containing single sleeping mats. She had her artist friends
customize them with designs like hot-rod flames. (Several of the wagons
are on view at the Whitney Museum of American Art at Altria in
New York City
until June 18.) Other homesteader cabins lie abandoned and are spooky
looking, with their flapping shreds of wallpaper and old bedsprings.
"The great thing about the desert is we can all project our fantasies
on it," Ms. Zittel said. "I came here looking for a part of myself, a
connection to who I would have been if I hadn't been an artist."
The
earth artists from the 60's and 70's like Michael Heizer and James
Turrell also headed to the desert, but to remote parts in
Nevada and
Arizona.
Their projects, like Mr. Turrell's "Roden Crater," required big budgets
and grand-scale land manipulation. The artists and architects who are
colonizing Joshua Tree seem more interested in creating do-it-yourself
mini-utopias. That's very much part of the pervasive Wild West spirit
here that lets neighbors, rugged enough to settle in the desert and
brave the elements, do as they please. This is also a town where
military personnel (the Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center is
nearby), Roswell-minded conspiracy theorists, hippies and bikers all
seem to coexist.
"Joshua Tree is the perfect place to be
visionary and experimental," said Linda Taalman of Taalman Koch, a Los
Angeles architecture firm. "There's a sense of remoteness and anything
goes."
The apocalyptic sculpture garden of one prominent artist,
Noah Purifoy, suggests just that. Mr. Purifoy, an installation artist
and co-founder of the Watts Towers Art Center in the 1960's, moved to
the desert in 1989 and spent the last 15 years of his life blanketing
the two-and-a-half-acre tract of parched land with sculptures made from
recycled junk like pastel plastic lunch trays, outdated computers,
toilets and — my favorite — a train track with trains made of old
bicycle wheels, VCR's and beer kegs.
Progressive architects, who
like to play with utopic philosophy, have also set their sights on
Joshua Tree as a promised land where aesthetic building regulations are
few and neighbors don't complain. This fall visitors will be able to
visit the iT House, a prefabricated aluminum and glass structure being
built by Taalman Koch Architecture. The firm is collaborating with
artists like Sarah Morris and Liam Gillick to create graphic strips of
wallpaperlike vinyl that will surround the house for changing views and
filtering sun.
Another firm, Ecoshack, operates a design lab near
Joshua Tree where environment-minded guests can test experimental
temporary dwellings like thermal-wing tents and cocoon sleeping
capsules.
George Van Tassel, a self-proclaimed U.F.O. abductee,
built a dome in the 1950's that he named the Integratron. It was bought
by Nancy and Joanne Karl, two sisters from New York, a few years ago,
and now it's open to the public.
If you time it right, you can
attend a U.F.O. convention and concerts featuring local bands like
Concrete Blond and Bauhaus (for some reason there's a large
concentration of 1980's Los Angeles bands living out in Joshua Tree).
It's also a sort of shrine for everyone from didgeridoo players to the
singer Robert Plant to a professor who, according to Joanne Karl, showed
up with a herd of sheep and goats.
Consider spending $10 on a
"sound bath." You go upstairs in the dome, crash out on a mat, close
your eyes and zone out for a half hour while one of the sisters creates a
surround sound symphony using several crystal bowls. (It's a bit like a
Pink Floyd laser show without the lasers and Pink Floyd.)
Pioneertown, developed as a movie set in 1946 by
Roy Rogers
and other Hollywood investors, is also in many ways a living art
installation. It's where classic Westerns including "The Cisco Kid" and
"Annie Oakley" were filmed, but now it's a semifunctioning town that
feels more like a
David Lynch
set. Off the dusty main street with its fake jail and general store are
a functioning bowling alley, houses to rent and most important, Pappy
& Harriet's, an Old West-style saloon with antlers and pool tables
that is the hub, along with the Palms in Wonder Valley, of the local
music scene.
Run by the ex-New Yorkers Linda Krantz and Robyn
Celia, Pappy & Harriet's is a must stop for musicians like Lucinda
Williams, PJ Harvey and Leon Russell. Sunday afternoons are when the
local desert rock bands come out, among them Gram Rabbit, Angel Thrift
and Queens of the Stone Age. On a recent Thursday afternoon, Jessica Von
Rabbit, the lead singer of Gram Rabbit, was drinking a mug of beer at
the end of a long wooden bar, outfitted in a fur-lined coat and big red
sunglasses.
In any other small desert town her midday vampy-rock
star appearance might have caused hostile stares. But in Joshua Tree,
she was just another local.
Source - http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/04/21/travel/escapes/21joshua.html?pagewanted=all